The Mystery of Vitamin A?

The Mystery Of Vitamin A Uncovered...

‘Vitamin A' -  The Drug of all Vitamins

The science of Vitamin A is very interesting, for a cosmetic ingredient commonly ‘touted' these days and the be all and end all of beauty care advancements, somewhere just after Vitamin C. There is no doubt that this Vitamin is the most powerful in the body, commands much respect and should be part of every advanced brand.

Although Vitamin C is needed in many enzyme reactions, neutralises free radicals, is vital for collagen and elastin and can help lighten pigmented skin it is a different creature to Vitamin A. Vitamin A is involved in the development of the foetus cells differentiation to create the human form, that is why it is dangerous to use Vitamin A topically or internally whilst pregnant. It is also very powerful through its ability to influence skin cells by regulating their creation from the basal layer through to the outer SC(Stratum Corneum) and this is what makes it a very special product.

Formulations, Ingredients and Knowing your Product

When using a Vitamin A cream, gel or serum it is important to know the other ingredients that are influencing the formulation in terms of penetration, peeling and rebuilding. There are creams for professional use and more dilute creams for home care. Vitamin A is so powerful that even a base cream with 0.5% retinol, can be over stimulating to the skin, so it is not for everyone and those with sensitive skins who have tried it will know this.

Professional creams are generally more powerful and used in short bursts as preparation prior to peels, special advanced treatments or on their own. There are many options for clients to use Vitamin A with, such as enzymes, microdermabrasion, most types of peels, or other exfoliating procedures.  Preparation of the skin is most important to get the best result. The better the skin condition the better the penetration of the formulation will be. Typically sun-damaged or aged skin is ideal for Vitamin A application and is used prior to the peel process, so that the infusion of Vitamin A is working as the skin sheds its outer layer, regrowing and receiving critical nutrients.

It is important to know how your formula works, follow the instructions directed by your professional and stay in contact with them, enabling you to get the best result. Some formulas are more advanced and can include peeling agents themselves.

Ingredients such as Resorcinol, a keratolytic(cell break up), can be used to help peel thickened skin whilst oils such as Oleic Acid(Olive Oil) can help to deliver the nutrient deep into the skin. Salicylic acid and lactic acid are mild peeling agents that can also assist the peel process whilst using Vitamin A, but should not be used daily or a long period. More advanced formulations can include calming and soothing ingredients such as Vitamin E, Grape seed extract and Avena sativa(Oat) kernel protein, that additionally help to rebuild the deeper tissues of the skin to make it stronger and consequentially help reduce fine lines.

Check the back of the formula that you are using so you know the strength and composition of what you are buying.

Some Science about Vitamin A, Medicines and Other Uses

Vitamin A for the skin acts on the DNA of the cell to promote healthy keratinocytes, a better SC(Stratum Corneum), reduction of excessive pigmentation and increase collagen and elastin formation by penetrating into the dermis of the skin.

The Vitamin A agents include, and primarily start with beta carotene derived from food, which is then converted into Retinol;the alcohol form, which is then converted to Retinal;the aldehyde form and then to Retinoic acid inside the skin cell. Skin care formulations offered by beauty professionals generally use beta carotene, retinol and altered forms of retinol such as Retinyl palmitate or Retinyl acetate. These are all effective in regulating action on our DNA.

Retinoic acid is not normally found on the outside of the cell wall and this is why it can irritate the skin when applied topically. Doctors effectively prescribe synthetic Retinoic acid, which would normally converted in the skin by enzymes from Retinal, known as Retin-A(Tretinoin) under brand names such as Atralin, Renova, Avita, Altinac, Retinova, etc. These creams can be irritating to the skin and also can thin it so the should not be used for long periods of time. i.e. More than a month.

 Retin-A was developed and patented by well known Skin Scientist Dr. Albert M. Kligman of Pennsylvania, USA, in 1967.

Roaccutane is a consumable form of Isotretinoin generally prescribed for acne, which dries up the skin and increases cellular turnover. The power of Vitamin A is strong and it is often solely prescribed by Doctors for acne, as it can dry the sebaceous glands of the skin up very quickly, however the over production of Sebum is only one component of any acne condition. As quoted by leading US skin researcher, author and formulator Dr Peter T. Pugliese, ‘acne components such as hormonal influences, skin condition and type, allergies, medication and environment play a critical role in effectively dealing with this condition.'

One of the key differences for a Doctor prescribing Vitamin A is that the Doctor does not perform advanced dermal treatments on you that a well trained therapist can, these can be much more effective when used in combination with such a powerful nutrient as Vitamin A. Additionally a complex super-antioxidant capsule can be used to help rebuild the skin from within, whilst can also include a small amount of Vitamin A.

Vitamin A can also be used for post scarring, acne conditions, and surgical rebuilding from accident damage, being useful to help remould or reform skin to create normality but again the sun must be avoided so such procedures should really take place in the winter months. Lighter protocols can be used in the spring to prepare the skin for summer, but in all cases a SPF30 should be used.

Vitamin A is vital in the body for good vision, immune function, and especially for fighting infectious diseases, bone structure, reproduction and in our case for skin epithelial cell integrity which is also found in the lungs, digestive tract and nervous system. Interestingly persons who are alcoholics normally have severe degenerative facial and neck collagen and elastin because the enzyme that is used to help remove alcohol needs the same vitamins that Vitamin A enzymes use to convert alcohol to aldehyde and then acetate to make it safe in the body.

Precautions:

It should be noted that Vitamin A, especially retinyl palmitate, which is easily destroyed, is also photo-sensitive meaning that when the UV rays strike it is very sensitive, and can effect the skin cells. Sunblock must be worn at all times under any Vitamin A treatment or home care application. Over use of Vitamin A can also lead to the over stimulation of the epithelial cells resulting in the irregular production of the sebaceous gland excretions which results in cyst type formation in the skin, where deactivated glands reactivate but are closed due to the suppression activity of the Vitamin A. Refer to the attached download discussing Vitamin A exposure to UV light and resultant free radical and lipid peroxidation of cellular structures.

Over use of Roaccutane also can deplete other critical bi-lipids in the epidermis layer of the skin which helps to form the protective barrier to the outside world and also the integrity of keratinocyte production. i.e Thick shiny skin with a protective acid mantle should be maintained at all times.

Vitamin A should not be used with Laser or IPL applications and you should have a least a month off any cream before having any such treatment. Other ingredients that should be avoided when using Vitamin A for topical enhancement should be MicroDermabrasion, Glycolic, Alpha or Beta Hydroxy acids, other exfoliating procedures. Your skin care professional will know the correct procedures to get the best result for your type of skin should you be using a peel in co-ordination with Vitamin A. 

Summary

In summary Vitamin A is a very powerful and vital nutrient that the body needs for many functions in the body including the immune system, reproductive system, bone integrity but it has important applications in skin rejuvenation. Within a well formulated product it is a very useful tool for rebuilding sun damaged or aged skin to remove fine lines and poor texture skin by rebuilding through the power of vitamins and enzymes, but it should be used in combination with other antioxidants and dermal nutrients that skin can feed on. Vitamin A and UV light is a bad mix and must be avoided at all costs.

Know how your product works and for how long you should use it to get the desired results and always use a sunblock. Trained advanced professional beauty therapists using Vitamin A products will be able to advise you on how Vitamin A can work with your AntiAgeing programme.

For further information contact us on info@beautyandskin.co.nz

For Professional Beauty Therapists a detailed advanced training course will be held in March 2009 after the Professional Expo with researchers and experts from the USA, which will cover Vitamin A procedures.

Danne Brand - Spring Revise Offer

We are pleased to include the Danne Spring Revise special offer for you to purchase two very powerful products as a revise pack, Danne Revise A and Danne Nite Firming Cream  for $199.00 and receive a Dermatox worth $55 absolutely Free, all nicely packaged.

Danne Nite Firming Cream is a collagen enhancing formula with super antioxidants designed to neutralise free radical attack during the rebuild phase of the night. Danne Dermatox is a 3 minute dermal deodorizer using the power of marine minerals to instantly extract toxins.

Contact us to discuss how we can help you with our network of specialists therapists.